Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation about training for climbing with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories about climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.
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westieluv24
Nov 26 '19
Rating:   2
Host needs to step it up

There are so many great guests on this podcast, but I inevitably find myself turning off each episode partway through because the host always seems unprepared and slightly uninterested. It often feels like the guests are caught off guard and that the host hasn’t done her research. Needs more energy.

Reviewed on Apple Podcasts
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kyleHarmer
Nov 5 '19
Rating:   10
Love it

I’m returning to climbing after a long break. I’ve started a training program, and this podcast is perfect for me. Great guests, great topics. Awesome

Reviewed on Apple Podcasts
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BriC1926
Nov 3 '19
Rating:   10
Love this podcast

I especially liked the recent episode 136 with the 5.11 climber! I’ve been trying to figure out how to scale back the training advice of this podcast to my level, and this was really helpful.Would love to hear from some more of the recent lady crushers: Margo Hayes, Brooke Rabatou, Emily Harrington, Natalie Grossman. And would love to hear more in depth explanation of what the antagonist/opposition muscles are for climbers and how much to train them to stay strong and injury free.

Reviewed on Apple Podcasts
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LenChar6689
Oct 21 '19
Rating:   10
Pincus Drinking

If you have a sip every time Pincus says totally, you will get tight! Fact

Reviewed on Apple Podcasts
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jmiyo
Jul 11 '19
Rating:   10
Love this podcast!

I’ve listened to almost all of this podcast and absolutely love it! Super informative and helpful. Perfect for my commute every day and to get psyched for climbing.

Reviewed on Apple Podcasts
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shelbykincaid
Jul 4 '19
Rating:   2
Insufferable interview style

Content and guests are good enough I guess, but Neely is so low energy and boring that my ears can’t tolerate it. Just have to be brutally honest. These aren’t very conversational, and they don’t flow. They’re rigid, cookie-cutter, one-way interviews. I feel like every episode I’ve listened to is more of the same, and it’s nothing I can’t find online. There are so many interesting podcasts out there I’d rather spend my valuable time on.

Reviewed on Apple Podcasts
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Benny Migs
May 29 '19
Rating:   10
New climber

I’m a new climber and stumbled across this podcast. I listened to episodes and was hooked. I been binging all of them. Neely ask very detailed questions. In fact I find myself asking the guest a question in my head and then Neely ask that question. Thank you Neely for the hard work.

Reviewed on Apple Podcasts
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AJAlabs
Apr 16 '19
Rating:   10
Best podcast in my library

Saying that TrainingBeta is the best climbing podcast would be an understatement. Personally, I think it’s the best podcast available. There’s so much educational content packed into every episode. Neely is such an eloquent speaker and she always ask they right questions!

Reviewed on Apple Podcasts
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aspiring climber
Feb 8 '19
Rating:   8
Variety!

I have loved all the podcasts I have listened to this far. I think the topics are really interesting and I loved hearing from known climbers, such as Sasha. I would recommend doing a little more variety. My favorite podcast was actually the most recent one you did with your friend who overcame her fear and sent her first 12a. I love hearing from the professionals because it’s really inspiring and interesting to hear their journey, but I loved hearing about our friend because it was so relatable. She made it known that she is a “normal person” who just found herself climbing one day and sent a 12a and she is really passionate about it. I would love to hear more stories like this, focusing on topics such as that one because that is such a common dilemma a lot of newer/intermediate climbers run into. I know I fall under that realm of climbers who has plateaued and is looking to improve and need a little inspiration from people who are very aware of how tough it can be. Overall though, such a good podcast! I love listening :)

Reviewed on Apple Podcasts
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BBLOX
Jan 28 '19
Rating:   6
The Host Hasnt Learned a Thing from Her Guests

I am always amazed at how little Neely has learned from her previous guests. Every episode she asks her guest at least one question, usually more, that I learned the answer to on one of her previous episodes. It's consistent too. And these aren't questions meant to educate her naive audience like many podcast hosts ask their guests, they are questions that she actually doesnt know the answer to. Neely, go back and listen to your podcast and maybe write stuff down or make some sort of effort to retain the information so that you can avoid asking questions like "what is chisel" or "what is aerocap" or saying things like "Literally no one on my show has ever said that before" when I have heard that exact thing expressed by more than one of your guests over the years. I appreciate the podcast and have learned a lot from it over the years, especially in the beginning when it was more interesting, so its not completely terrible, but listening to Neely ask questions that she should absolutley know the answer to by now is infuriating. Do you just not care to learn? I dont get it. I have learned more from your guests than you have. That shouldn't be the case.

Reviewed on Apple Podcasts
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Midoriness13
Jan 9 '19
Rating:   10
Fantastic!

Very informative... thank you, Neeley!

Reviewed on Apple Podcasts
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Zagnut999
Nov 18 '18
Rating:   10
Fantastic

I’ve recently returned to climbing after decades of absence. I’ve been listening to this podcast and am up to episode 25. It is both educational and inspiring. I appreciate the thoughtfulness of the people interviewed and Neely’s interjection of personal experience. I haven’t used any of the training that they offer but hope to as I get up to speed.

Reviewed on Apple Podcasts
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jac in the rocks
Nov 2 '18
Rating:   10
Love the podcast!

Neely, these interviews ROCK! The diversity of interviewees is great and inspiring. I'm only up to the beginning of 2016, but so far I can confirm that Steve Bechtel is effing hilarious -- bring him back whenever possible. Jared Vagy's book has been a big help with dodgy elbows and shoulder issues. I get a little insight into training from each episode. I've been bouldering for a couple years, but am stuck at the V6 level. At least in the South Bay SF, coaching seems geared toward kids and teams. Any podcast insight on finding an in-person coach for intermediate level adults with jobs/kids would be great. Thanks for all the effort you put into this.

Reviewed on Apple Podcasts
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Arizonaclimbing
Sep 23 '18
Rating:   10
Love it

I just started listening and can't stop. It is so much better hearing from a number of accomplished climbers on what works and doesn't work.

Reviewed on Apple Podcasts
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Wgalbrd
Jul 12 '18
Rating:   10
Just what the climbing world needs!

I loved this podcast from episode 1, and I can’t believe it took me so long to find it. I listen to it all day at work, and it inspires me to get to the wall and work hard. It’s the perfect way to keep the psych and stoke going strong for those who live to climb. Thanks Neely!

Reviewed on Apple Podcasts
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This app is groovy
May 7 '18
Rating:   10
Love it!

Great podcast Neely! I love listening to these. I was wondering, if it’s not too much trouble, if you could ask the trainers/physical therapists/climbers about how/if/when they stretch? It’s just not something I hear about often unless I’m searching for it specifically and I thought it might be something to add to each episode. If not I’ll be listening anyway! You’re awesome! Thanks for all the work you do :)

Reviewed on Apple Podcasts
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Climb-girl
Apr 19 '18
Rating:   6
Educational but closed minded!!

I’ve been enjoying the podcast and love the information. The Alex Bible interview is my favorite so far, I love his passion! I get super irritated and want to turn off your podcast every time you say something about carbs. I was paleo for years, and switched to keto 2 months ago(no more than 20 carbs a day). Since going keto I’ve gained strength, recover faster, & am climbing harder than ever. Carbs aren’t all they are cracked up to be. Plus it’s nice to be in the gyms for hours and not need to go grab a snack and refuel. I know you have a podcast on keto too, but PLEASE stop bagging on it every time you get a chance!

Reviewed on Apple Podcasts
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